Immortal Master Kong

Sattue of Confucius at Ni Shan Academy

 中文链接：不死的孔子

Of the three main pillars of Chinese civilisation, I liked Daoism at first sight. Believe it or not, my first introduction to Daoism was Alan Watts’ The Way of Tao, a book I picked up in a secondhand bookstore in Canada. I found out much later that my late father was actually lifetime president of a Daoism Association in Hong Kong. He never discussed his spiritual practice with us. Typical Daoist.

With age, I have become a belated student of Buddhist wisdoms at a respectable distance.

But until recently, Confucius was to me an archaic sage whose ideas had long putrefied. Had I lived in the tumultuous moments of May Fourth in early 20th century, or the Cultural Revolution, I would have chanted for its uprooting. Enough is enough. China had been struggling desperately for a century. Nothing seemed to work. Confucius was to blame. Time to get out of the two-thousand-year-old straight jacket. His ideas, so deeply engrained in Chinese society, was fettering progress, cutting China off from the modern age.

Dissecting the Nouveau Riche

鏈接中文版：細看暴發戶

More than 120 million Chinese travel overseas annually. Occasionally, one or two unruly tourists would make headlines, triggering another round of nouveau riche caricature and soul searching. What exactly are the nouveau riche? My on-line dictionary defines the slightly pompous French term as “people who have recently acquired wealth, typically those perceived as ostentatious or lacking in good taste.” At least four subjective terms in this definition —  recent, wealth, ostentatious, and good taste — need further clarification.

The New Face of Old Guangzhou 廣州的舊城新貌

The Chan tablets behind the kirin are long gone at the Chan Academy 

陳氏家祠麒麟身後的牌位早已不見了

Like most tourists, I prefer historical sites or “exotic” destinations when travelling, wishing to see something “different”. Since I regarded Guangzhou familiar from frequent visits during the early 1990s, I had not thought of exploring it as a tourist. Thanks to a friend who organised a weekend trip recently, I was surprised by how much the old city has changed. It not only looked different as expected, but also felt very different. Much of the old was thankfully still there, calmly giving way to the new. In such a dramatic and abrupt social transformation, anxiety is expected. But from the places we visited and the people we talked to, I sensed mostly optimism and vibrancy rather than misgivings.

There's a wonderful French restaurant hiding on the 4th floor. No Elevator. 

四樓有家超正法式素食館

正如很多遊客一樣，我一般來說會挑選比較新鮮的旅遊目的地，希望增廣見聞。由於在90年代初經常會去廣州，所以自以為對這個兩千年古城有些認識，便沒有想過去羊城當遊客。幸好上星期有朋友安排廣州兩晚三日美食游，才有機會見證一別二十年的廣州在軟件硬件上的巨大改進。當然，一個古老城市有很多遺產，也有不少包袱，與從頭規劃建設的地方各有利弊，不能相比。但在種種條件限制下，廣州能夠大致和諧地繁榮過渡到21世紀，肯定是多方面努力和忍讓的成果。看似簡單，得來不易。

Laos (3) - Beautiful Laos 老撾（3）－ 美麗的老撾

Link to previous episode - "The Bombed People"

鏈接到上一節 － “被瘋狂轟炸的人民”

I'm still wondering if the two figures I saw at the magnificent Phapeng Falls are real or not
我到今天還懷疑 Phapeng 瀑布石頭上的人，是真是假

We entered Laos by bus at Boten（磨丁）. The immigration officer asked politely for RMB20 “service fees” to fill my entry form. It wasn’t necessary but I paid anyways. Most of my travel mates were at another line, and not asked to pay anything. Jobbery — if it isn’t too serious an accusation for a minor transgression — like everything else in life, should be viewed with a sense of proportion. Poor folks wanting to make a few bucks is understandable human nature. Monstrous greed from rich people, in the name of “economic freedom”, is grotesque and pathological. To simple-mindedly measure them with the same yardstick would be unfair, unintelligent, and possibly hypocritical. Anyways, we visited villages and temples, markets and waterfalls, from Boten to Luan Prabang to Pakse. The natural scenery was stunning.



Beautiful sunrise at 4000 Islands 四千岛日出

Laos (1) 老撾 （1）

Link to previous post: Xishuangbanna 

链接到上一篇：西雙版納

I know it’s downright silly to attempt summarising a country’s history in a hundred words; but let’s do anyways. It’s the internet age you see. Laos shares a rich diversity of ethnicity with neighbouring China, comprising dozens of ethnic groups. From the 6th to 13th century, the region was settled by mostly Chinese and Kmur. Hinayana Buddhism was introduced in the 14th Century, and quickly gained prominence through compassionate talks rather than bloody crusades. Mountain tribes are roughly demarcated by altitude into high, middle and low clusters, though low altitude mountain tribes are technically not so mountainous aren’t they?  Here we go: nine centuries recapped in a hundred words.

用三兩百字去概論一個國家的歷史，是荒誕行為。但在互聯網活動，非要這樣。否則沒有朋友，沒有讀者，哪來順手 「贊」 呢？老撾的人口成分跟毗鄰的雲南相似，比較豐富，由幾十個部族組成。於六到十三世紀期間，游移到老撾定居的民族主要來自中國山區和高棉地帶。小乘佛教自十四世紀傳入，很快被接受，從沒有搞過十字軍式的屠殺來釋放靈魂。導遊說山地民族一般按聚居的高度分為低，中，高，三類。不過把在低地生活的人划成 「山地人」，似乎有些矛盾。反正九百年的一段日子，就這樣被我三言兩語歸納啦！

The mountain villages are fog locked every morning 每天早上被浓雾困锁的山区寨村

Xishuangbanna (3) — Yourantai, a Swiss chalet in Jing Hong 悠然台 － 景洪的瑞士绿洲

Whoever has heard of a border city in Xishuangbanna called Jing Hong? Just short of half a million inhabitants, it’s neither here nor there by Chinese standard. We arrived in the early evening. After dinner, we took a brief walking tour downtown to absorb its ambiance. As in nearly every Chinese town and city, a big group was doing dance exercise in the public square. Nearby, the riverside disco was warming up their oversized loudspeakers to a different tune. Next to it was a vibrant night market selling all things edible or wearable under heaven.

After loitering at the market for half and hour, we headed for our resort hotel. The driver’s navigator predicted the drive to take only five to ten minutes. Ten minutes from here? I couldn’t help being skeptical. I prepared for mental shutdown, getting ready for an early night with my earplugs firmly inserted. I suspected the “resort” to be one of those furnished with an all-night disco and twenty-four-hour massage service.

聽過西雙版納景洪市的人應該不太多吧。一個四十多萬人口的邊疆城市，不大不小，也不怎麼中型。到達景洪時，已近黃昏。在市中心晚飯後，到熱鬧的夜 市逛了一圈。湄公河畔的幽靜，似乎已被剛流行的迪斯科音樂所淹沒。逗留了大概一個小時，司機才用導航尋找「悠然台」去。據說這度假村離開市中心只有五到十 分鐘車程。我心想，一個跟景洪夜市相距十分鐘的「度假村」，能有多棒呢？莫非又是門庭如市，二十四小時 MTV 和按摩服務的所謂「現代化」休閒勝地？我暗自把期望降到最低，拿出耳塞，準備早睡早起身體好。過了幾分鐘，巴士停在半山一個小區中央。導航系統的機械聲音宣佈我們已經到達目的地。「就這裡？」 我忍不住問了句。沒有人回答我。可能大家的心裡當時也盤旋著同樣的問題。

A few minute later, we arrived at an unimpressive neighbourhood. “Here?” I asked. Nobody answered. I guess everyone had the same question in mind. A garden gate next to a local corner store had its name in Chinese and English — Yourantai. When the owner and his manager welcomed us inside, there was a synchronised wow! Unfortunately, I’m going to ruin this element of surprise for you with this post, if you ever visit Yourantai.

小區雜貨店的隔壁有扇大鐵門，上面用中英文寫著「悠然台」。按鐘後，等了好幾分鐘台主和他的經理才開門。當我們踏進悠然台的一霎那，都異口同聲地「哇」了一聲。

Xishuangbanna 西双版纳 (2) — Ancient Tea Mountains 古茶園

Dusk at Jing Mai Shan 景邁山暮色

Inside Jing-Mai Shan (Shan means Mountain) is one of the oldest natural tea plantations in Yunan Province with over 1800 years of history according to Bu Lang Tribe records. The Bu Lang plant tea trees at the fringe of the forest with minimal disturbance to the flora and fauna, just as their forebears had done for nearly two millennia. To ancient farmers, protecting the natural environment upon which they depend for food and survival is just common sense and self-preservation, not delusional “magnanimity” towards pitiful Mother Earth. There are no fences or spray painted logos around the tea trees. The farmers recognise which tree belongs to who. The ability to tell trees apart might seem incredible to some, but it’s actually quite easy, provided one has nominal vision and intelligence.

景邁山是雲南最古老的茶園之一。根據布朗族的記錄，大概有一千八百年的歷史。今天的布朗族茶農，仍然依照古老傳統，栽培茶樹時盡量不騷擾大自然的一草一木。古老民族都比較清楚生我養我者最終是天然環境，不是超級市場。對大地母親敬畏愛護乃生存之道。「環保」並非時尚，更不應該被顛倒為人類對唯一生存環境的「恩賜」。誰家種的茶樹，族人都互相認得，無需加圍欄或記號。

Lakeside at Jing Mai Shan 景迈山的湖畔风光

Xishuangbanna and Laos (1) - Meng Zhe Market 西双版纳与老挝（1）－ 勐遮市场

These days, when travelling, I often feel a precocious sense of nostalgia. The photos that I take could become mini time-capsules much sooner than expected. Come back in a year, and the scene may have changed beyond recognition due to hyper development, mindless conflicts, a colour revolution, and/or an invasion followed by wanton looting plus cultural devastation by a disproportional military power. The jolly marketeer in my viewfinder could become a refugee within months, for reasons beyond reasoning. Friends who have been to Syria like to reminisce how suddenly and thoroughly a beautiful and friendly country can be ruined.

近年來，當我旅遊拍照的時候，往往有幾分過早出現的「懷舊感」。在這無常萬變，災難頻頻的世界，不少眼前景象隨時短期內面目全非。有些改變是由於高速發展所致。但不少遽變都源於無理性的衝突，顏色革命，甚至從天而降的侵略者以不對稱的科技暴力毀滅，屠殺，改朝換代，搶掠資源和文化清洗。照相機前滿臉笑容的小販，說不定幾個月後家破人亡，淪為難民。到過敘利亞旅遊的朋友，都有類似的慨嘆。

Back in January this year (2016), I visited Xishuangbanna and Laos with a few travel-mates. Fortunately, these regions seem more likely to prosper rather than be ruined in the foreseeable future, though one should never underestimate the destructive power of Dark Forces.

我一月份途經西雙版納到老撾兜了一圈。看來這地區面對高速發展的機遇和挑戰，大大高於戰禍。但破壞和平的惡勢力無孔不入，不能掉以輕心。

A Little Soho Story 蘇豪區的小故事

Ah! Soho! Sounds so Chinese. But the name originated in London, probably as hunting grounds for Henry Number Eight and friends. Nobody’s sure. Gradually, the area was taken over by brothels and bars and restaurants, pleasure establishments favoured by privileged gentlemen after shooting foxes. Since the 1980s, prostitutes have been replaced by high margin shops and posh restaurants. Foxes had been long gone. 

蘇豪這個名字很有中國味道，出處卻在倫敦。據說蘇豪區原來是亨利八號和哥們的狩獵場。貴族獵狐完畢，都要輕鬆一下。於是妓院，酒吧和食肆慢慢蓬勃起來。自八十年代後，貨真價實的妓女雖然佔地不多，也難逃被貨真價不實的高級商鋪取代。不知為何，蘇豪這名字甚受歡迎。紐約抄了之後，香港又抄。美國人抄襲肯定有一番道理，說 Soho 代表 South of Houston 街。於是香港連這命名之術也照抄，話 Soho 代表 「荷里活道之南」 －South of Hollywood 才真。其實 Soho 位置在歌賦街以北，叫做 No Go （North of Gough Street）會較有創意。不過香港的強項是抄襲，和取笑大陸人抄襲，不是創新。 

The name Soho attracts copycats for some reason. It’s been recycled in New York and Hong Kong at least. Soho, after due American justification, means South of Houston Street in NYC. Hong Kong  feels the need to copy semanticity as well, and claims it stands for South of Hollywood Road. But Soho Hong Kong is also north of Gough Street. Why not call it NoGo instead? Too original I suppose. I personally prefer the vagueness of Soho London; truly seminal things tend to be shrouded by time, elusive to definition.

The Caucasus (3) Faces of Armenia & Azerbaijan 高加索掠影（3）阿塞拜疆與亞美尼亞的面

A capella singer in a stone chamber at Garni, Armenia
在亚美尼亚古迹 Garni 石室清唱圣诗的歌手

鏈接到上一篇： 高加索掠影（2）－宗教

Link to last post: The Caucasus (2) — Religion

我將阿塞拜疆與亞美尼亞兩個世仇放在一起，是對他們的一種友好祝願。早在一戰前，這兩族人一有機會便你插我眼珠，我咬你耳朵。20世紀期間，奧斯曼帝國，大英帝國，和蘇聯都先後當過監護人，亦分別播下了新衝突的種子。

By mixing Armenian and Azerbaijani faces in this post, I’ve probably committed a capital offence in both countries. Animosity between the two neighbours goes way back to before WW1, for untraceable reasons which have long been distilled down to elemental hatred. For more than a century now, they’d kick and bite and scratch each other whenever a big guy isn’t around. The Ottoman, British, and Soviet empires had all played guardian here, and sowed new seeds for future conflict.

高加索掠影 The Caucasus (4) －格魯吉亞的面目 Faces of Georgia

Woman outside Church 教堂外的老婦

鏈接到上一篇 高加索掠影（3）－阿塞拜疆與亞美尼亞的面目

Link to previous post: The Caucasus (3) — Faces of Armenia and Azerbaijan

要瞭解格魯吉亞的處境，失業率是個好參數。蘇聯瓦解後，格魯吉亞獨立，失業率狂飆至85%，社會動蕩了二十多年。現在比較安定，失業率降了下來，仍然停留在65%的懸崖邊上。導遊指出，格魯吉亞人的傳統本領是務農和打仗。現在人口只有三百多萬，要把本事擴大，經濟多元化，談何容易？美國，北約和以色列於是把握機會，大發好心，在一個名為 「軍備培訓」 的資助計劃下，大力培養格魯吉亞人的戰爭天分。

格魯吉亞人給我的印象很淳樸倔強，老實勤勞。但很多人的眼神都帶著幾分無奈與憂戚。

Unemployment in Georgia is a good indicator of the disheartening situation. When first separated from the USSR in 1991, the newborn nation plunged promptly into chaos. Unemployment rocketed to 85%. Relative calmness has been restored, but unemployment still stands at an astounding 65%. Georgians, in the words of the tour guide, are traditionally farmers and warriors. With only 3.5 million of them, holding on to strong traditions, diversifying the economy is much easier dreamt than done. Israel, NATO and the USA are currently helping to develop one of two Georgian talents under an aid programme prosaically and ominously named Arm and Train.

Many Georgians look sad.

The Caucasus (1) — A Brief Intro 高加索掠影（1）－文明摇篮的面貌

Azerbaijan 阿塞拜疆

A few months ago, I was still misspelling Caucasus as “Caucuses”. Now that I’ve visited Azerbaijan, Armenia, and Georgia for 18 days, less travel time, I have learnt a few trivia about the Southern Caucasus, and formed some superficial impressions of my own.

老實說，幾個月前，我連高加索是哪個「索」字也搞不清。但花了18天時間參觀南高三國 －－ 阿塞拜疆，亞美尼亞，格魯吉亞 －－之後，除了知道了一點點他們的歷史文化和風土人情外，也對這歐亞要塞多了幾分模糊印象和片面看法。

Tsminda Sameba Church against Kazbegi 格魯吉亞著名的卡茲別吉風貌

The Caucasus (2) — Religion 高加索掠影（2）－宗教

Link to Previous Post: The Caucasus (1) — A Brief Intro

鏈接到上一篇：高加索掠影（1）－文明搖籃的面貌

We are supposed to be tolerant of religion no matter how absurd it is; but religions have not been very tolerant of others. Throughout the Caucasus, there’s nearly nothing left of its pre-Christian glories; they have been brutally destroyed or craftily painted over by organised religions long ago. All that’s left from five millennia of Caucasian civilisation are churches, cathedrals, monasteries, and memories of savage conflicts incited by gods. In less than three weeks, I saw a lifetime’s worth of crosses and churches and monasteries. I suspect there are more crucifixes and monasteries in Armenia and Georgia than in Heaven itself. 

無論多荒誕的宗教，現代文明人都不只要包容，還得尊重。這國際規矩是由宗教文化養大的人定的，不得破壞。但回顧歷史，宗教本身對異見通常不留情面，手起刀落。在有幾千年歷史的高加索，差不多所有古蹟都是四世紀歸奉了基督以後的遺物。在這之前的異教建設，祭祀聖殿之類，都被清洗乾淨，考古無從。幾千年老的文明搖籃，剩下的都是教堂和修道院。我看在亞美尼亞和格魯吉亞的十字架，可能比天堂的還要多。

Pilgrims at Geghard Cave Monastery, Armenia
亞美尼亞 Geghard 山洞修院的朝聖信徒

Beautiful North (4) Santa and Locusts Part (1) - Lapland

「鏈接到中文版：芬蘭聖誕與蝗蟲上集」

This X’mas, we were part of a locust cloud in Santa’s homeland, warmly welcomed by the cool Finns. Before getting into all that, first a few words and photos on Lapland. 

Santa’s home at Rovaniemi was an elfish shopping mall, kinda cute but not enough to raise goosebumps. Lining up for half an hour with my ten-year-old to take a picture with Father Christmas used up a lot of paternal love, but Santa surprised me. He was a gracious old man, appearing more regal than drunk, and perplexingly committed to being photographed all day with dumb tourists. He greeted us enthusiastically in Chinese: “Ho ho ho! Ni Hao Ma?” His felt slippers were ginormous, approximately three times my size — 130?

Rovaniemi was worth a one-day visit. An hour and a half northward by bus was Levi, where everything, except the food, had a magical air. 

Ulpotha — An Enchanting Retreat 斯里兰卡迷人的瑜伽静修村

Ulpotha has been named the “Best Yoga Retreat in Sri Lanka” for good reasons. It’s a truly unforgettable experience for anyone seeking a retreat from urban life, rather than a resort to indulge in alternative excesses and over-packaged pampering. I don’t have much to add to Ulpotha’s beautiful website (http://www.ulpotha.com). Magical Ulpotha leaves little room for exaggeration or false advertising.

However, I do think there are at least ten reasons why one shouldn’t go anywhere near Ulpotha. Before my analysis, first a few supplementary photos:

斯里兰卡的 Ulpotha 瑜伽静修村被称全国之冠，是名符其实。对真心希望暂时摆脱烦嚣，尝试返璞归真的都市人来说，是难得的乐土。Ulpotha 的网站(http://www.ulpotha.com)上的漂亮相片，丝毫没有夸张，我也就不重复了。

Ulpotha 的魅力虽然一点不假，我却认为由于种种原因，很多人应该敬而远之。在我分析 Ulpotha 的敝处之前，先看几张补充图片：

Impressions from Iran (5) Final Episode: Iran! Iran! 伊朗印象（5）终结篇: 伊朗！伊朗！

Isfahan Square
伊斯法罕的广场 

Two weeks in Iran showed me the extent to which a country can be savagely demonised by the corporate free press. I was surprised by the contrast between what I saw, and what’s commonly portrayed in TV and newspapers. I hope my pictures have said at least a few words.

两个星期的南伊之游，让我领会到西方“自由传媒”的妖魔化力量，原来比想像中更巨大狠毒。像伊朗这类被围困孤立了的国家，一般人都没有亲身证明的机会。在受害人没有反驳能力的情况下，强大的国际喉舌更肆无忌惮，随意抹黑。

Impressions from Iran (4) — Heroes 伊朗印象（4）－ 英雄篇

Link to previous post: Impression (3) Mosques and Morgues

链接到上一节：印象（3）上帝与波斯

Persia’s Achaemenid Empire once kinda stretched from Turkey in the west to Pakistan in the East. Its founder Cyrus the Great (circa 600 to 530 BCE), and legendary capital Persepolis (eventually razed by Alexander the Pyromaniac) may evoke a glorious past, but are no match for Hafez and Saadi in capturing the soul and passion of Iran. Few other people revere their poets like Iranians do. The mausoleum of Hafez is still packed with admirers after more than 600 years. They seek solace from his philosophical love poems, even use them as soothsayings to calm the mind and heart. Saadi Shirazi who lived a century before Hafez is similarly remembered. 

大约两千五百年前，波斯的阿契美尼德王朝疆域辽阔，西包土耳其，东含巴基斯坦。王朝的缔造者居鲁士大帝，和被希腊纵火狂阿历山大烧毁的著名古都 Persepolis，虽然标志着古波斯帝国的文明和强大，但对伊朗人来说，魅力还不及哈菲兹和萨迪。看来没有一个民族比伊朗人更爱慕伟大的诗人。六百多年来，伊朗人到哈菲兹的陵园凭吊，冥想，找寻灵性，修补创伤，络绎不绝。他充满哲理的情诗，甚至被用来占卦。

The ruins of Persepolis, capital of the largest empire 2500 years ago
2500年前世上最强大繁荣的古都 Persepolis

Impressions from Iran (3) — Mosques and Morgues 伊朗印象（3）－ 上帝与波斯

Link to Previous Post of this series: Persian Bazaars

链接到上一章：波斯市集

Visitor Contemplating a 1500-year-old Fire behind glass
in Zoroastrian Temple in Yadz
在 Yadz 拜火庙的火盘，供人隔着玻璃观赏参拜。
盘内的火已经维持了1500年以上。

Religion and the Middle East are inseparable. Iran is no exception, though the average Iranians are not nearly as devout as they appear to outsiders. Started out as monotheistic Parsees (Zoroastrians) in the 6th Century, ancient Persians worshipped a God named Ahura Mazda (unrelated to the Japanese car) with an unremitting fire maintained by a keeper. A few centuries later, it was replaced by Islam, brought in by Arabic conquerors. It has since dominated the spiritual side of Iran, especially after the Islamic Revolution 35 years ago. Zoroastrian has survived as a minor religion, and some fire temples are still in use. 

宗教在中东有历史性的中心地位，伊朗当然不例外。不过对一般的伊朗人来说，宗教无疑是历史文化和生活的一部分，但信仰并不狂热。波斯人在六世纪创立了拜火教，教义极为简单合理，不外正念，正言，正行。拜火教中文译名有些误导。教徒拜的不是火，而是与日本汽车同名的真神“万事达” 。崇拜祂的工具是薪火不断的“火盘”。伊斯兰教由阿拉伯侵略者大概一千年前带入波斯，自此成为主流，但仍然有部分人信奉拜火教。

Impressions from Iran (2) — Persian Bazaars 伊朗印象（2）－ 波斯市集

Tehran Bazaar 德黑兰市集 

Link to Previous Post: Impressions from Iran (1) — Faces of Evil 

链接到伊朗印象（1）－ “邪恶轴心” 的嘴脸

Whenever I visit a strange place, I like to see its markets. They tell me a lot about the locals’ lives, habits, social order, living standard, and behaviour towards each other. For example, supermarkets are efficient, impersonal, and cold, while advertising “organic” produce. I wonder who invented them. 

Persian Bazaars are colourful, personal, and busy, but clean and quiet comparing with their Far East counterparts. Iranians do bargain, but not at the expense of sanity and composure. They don’t scream and exchange curses ritualistically before finalising a deal. The bazaars open early in the morning, then take a long nap after lunch before resuming in the late afternoon. Normally, there’s a seemingly incongruous tomb of an imam and/or a religious school in the midst of fragrant herbs and sticky candies, probably to remind people of their spiritual needs while depraving the bodies with yummy food and colourful fabrics.

我每到一个陌生地方，都喜欢到市集逛逛。市场是当地民生的缩影；人民的所爱，生活水平，物价指数，大概的治安情况，和相处态度，都会在市场反应出来。假如你有留心中国市场文化从70年代到今天的转变，便不难看到整国国家过去几十年的演变。再看看高效冷漠的“超市”，打着招牌大卖“有机食品”，便不难推想谁是现代超市的“发明者”。

市集是每个伊朗城镇的心脏；虽然十分繁荣热闹，却比我们的街市干净宁静。伊朗人也讨价还价，但不过份，亦不会大吵大闹，互相诅咒一番才忿忿然成交。波斯市集一早开市，午后小睡，到四五点才苏醒过来。市集当中通常有个宗教领袖的墓，祈祷的地方或伊斯兰学校，提醒着人们买香料煲鸡汤的时候不要忘记了照顾灵魂。

Impressions from Iran (1) - SMILING FACES from Bush's AXIS of EVIL 伊朗印象（1）－ 布希 “邪恶轴心” 的善良嘴脸

When newspaper-reading friends first learnt of my plan to join a few retirees for a trip to Iran, their common reaction was: “Iran? You be careful huh.” As departure approached, I became slightly nervous about adventuring into Bush's “Axis of Evil”, braving a “yellow travel alert” dutifully echoed by the Hong Kong Government. I even considered buying insurance for the first time. However, anxiety was no match for my curiosity about the only other ancient civilisation which still thinks reasonably independently.

前阵子有几位退休朋友自己组团游伊朗，我立即报名参加。除了中国，当今世上还能基本上思想独立的文明古国就只有伊朗，非要看看不可。 但很多经常看报纸的朋友们知道之后，都面带忧色地警告我小心。“踏足美国的邪恶轴心非同小可，惟望三思而行。” 可惜退缩已经太迟，最后只有鼓起勇气，与家人拥抱道别之后，战战兢兢地登上飞机。