Immortal Master Kong

Sattue of Confucius at Ni Shan Academy

 中文链接：不死的孔子

Of the three main pillars of Chinese civilisation, I liked Daoism at first sight. Believe it or not, my first introduction to Daoism was Alan Watts’ The Way of Tao, a book I picked up in a secondhand bookstore in Canada. I found out much later that my late father was actually lifetime president of a Daoism Association in Hong Kong. He never discussed his spiritual practice with us. Typical Daoist.

With age, I have become a belated student of Buddhist wisdoms at a respectable distance.

But until recently, Confucius was to me an archaic sage whose ideas had long putrefied. Had I lived in the tumultuous moments of May Fourth in early 20th century, or the Cultural Revolution, I would have chanted for its uprooting. Enough is enough. China had been struggling desperately for a century. Nothing seemed to work. Confucius was to blame. Time to get out of the two-thousand-year-old straight jacket. His ideas, so deeply engrained in Chinese society, was fettering progress, cutting China off from the modern age.

不死的孔子

Link to English Version - Immortal Master Kong

可能由於性格關係吧，中華文化三大支柱儒釋道之中，我對老莊一讀鐘情。這裡有個小插曲：我首次認識道家，竟然是在加拿大偶然讀了Alan Watts 的老番版本 The Way of Tao。當時不知道先父原來是香港道德會善慶洞的會長。他從不對我們說道，真有道家個性！

漸入老年後，覺得佛學的生命觀和科學性更高更妙，卻自問只有資格靜靜旁聽，心裡拜服，不敢自認「學佛」，更莫論修証了。


至於儒家，我一向懷有負面偏見。假如年輕時身處五四運動或文革的歷史洪流，我肯定也會高呼「打倒孔家店」！這不怪誰，中國給煙商海盜踢屁股踢了整個世紀，什麼方法都試過，什麼道理都說盡，還不是一塌糊塗，翻身無期？夠啦！幾千年的老化石，難以改造，無法消化，是中華民族的毒瘤，前進的絆腳石！不打倒怎成？

Blue Moon Nirvana

中文版本：“藍月涅槃” 鏈接

A few days ago, on my way to evening meditation at Dong Shan (link to Shadows of Cave Mountain), I was captivated by the moon. It was a “blue moon”, a rare event in the Gregorian calendar, happening only once in a blue moon, golden in colour. 

It was also the 15th day of the second moon according to the Chinese lunar calendar — Buddha’s Nirvana Day, and the 31st of April 2018, Easter Saturday, the only Christian holiday which follows the lunar cycle. Jesus had just been hammered into his passionate version of Nirvana about two millennia ago, holding his breath until Monday. Coincidence never fails to intrigue.

藍月涅槃

Link to English Version: Blue Moon Nirvana

三月三十一日是陰曆二月十五，當我緩步輕聲走往洞山禪堂途中（洞山禪影 鏈接），突然被天上的月光迷住了。天邊掛著金黃色的「藍月亮」。 原來藍月只不過是陽曆同一月內出現的第二個月圓，並非天文奇景，也不藍色。至於因何得名，則無從考究。由於不常發生，被視為罕見，所以有 「once in a blue moon」 之說。剛巧當晚為佛祖的涅槃日，也是基督教唯一的陰曆節日復活節。據說念耶穌大約兩千年前被劊子手釘進了臨時涅槃，閉氣三天後再重現江湖。

Graffiti 塗鴉

I don’t know anything about graffiti, but the good ones make me stop to admire, as if in a gallery. Some are amazing not only due to its artistic merits, but the fact that the artists don’t expect reward or recognition for their masterpieces. Even Banksy’s identity remains a mystery. A good piece of graffiti often makes me curious. What does the artist do for a living? Is this person gravity proof? Does he or she plan and practise on the living room wall first, before on-site execution? How many nights does it take to do something this size?

我對塗鴉沒有研究，但一幅好的塗鴉，往往會令我駐足欣賞，如同身在畫廊。好的塗鴉除了藝術價值，還有創作者的心態。哪麼辛苦完成的作品，沒有揚名求利的動機，也算一種清高吧。連舉世知名的 Banksy 的身份，到現在還是個謎。 有水準的塗鴉，會令我好奇。如此藝術高人，冒著地心吸力之險，月黑風高爬外牆噴漆為啥呢？哪麼大的壁畫，他之前有沒有在家裡大廳牆壁預習一次呢？一共要搞幾個晚上才完成呢？

Of course, a lot of street doodling is garbage. Simpleminded atrocities such as gang slogans, misspelled political messages or fatuous declaration of love may seem worthless. But they somehow accentuate the despair and social failure which have given birth to their brand of vandalism.

當然，佳作始終是少數。更多的是粗口錯白字，童黨標語，到此一游，或豬彪愛阿嬌之類的垃圾。但這些低檔次塗鴉，在破舊橫街和貧民窟，卻頗添氣氛，也是社會某方面失敗的見證

The New Face of Old Guangzhou 廣州的舊城新貌

The Chan tablets behind the kirin are long gone at the Chan Academy 

陳氏家祠麒麟身後的牌位早已不見了

Like most tourists, I prefer historical sites or “exotic” destinations when travelling, wishing to see something “different”. Since I regarded Guangzhou familiar from frequent visits during the early 1990s, I had not thought of exploring it as a tourist. Thanks to a friend who organised a weekend trip recently, I was surprised by how much the old city has changed. It not only looked different as expected, but also felt very different. Much of the old was thankfully still there, calmly giving way to the new. In such a dramatic and abrupt social transformation, anxiety is expected. But from the places we visited and the people we talked to, I sensed mostly optimism and vibrancy rather than misgivings.

There's a wonderful French restaurant hiding on the 4th floor. No Elevator. 

四樓有家超正法式素食館

正如很多遊客一樣，我一般來說會挑選比較新鮮的旅遊目的地，希望增廣見聞。由於在90年代初經常會去廣州，所以自以為對這個兩千年古城有些認識，便沒有想過去羊城當遊客。幸好上星期有朋友安排廣州兩晚三日美食游，才有機會見證一別二十年的廣州在軟件硬件上的巨大改進。當然，一個古老城市有很多遺產，也有不少包袱，與從頭規劃建設的地方各有利弊，不能相比。但在種種條件限制下，廣州能夠大致和諧地繁榮過渡到21世紀，肯定是多方面努力和忍讓的成果。看似簡單，得來不易。

Faces of Iceland 冰岛面貌

Photogenic Iceland has been exhaustedly covered. Every visitor to Iceland has taken a picture similar to this. Perhaps I'll focus more on the faces of its fascinating people instead? 

冰岛的美，举世闻名，已经被太多摄影大师全面覆盖了。但去年六月花了钱和了时间游冰岛，不展示几张相片又心有不甘。让我多放一点注意力在蛮有个性的冰岛人民吧。

I visited Iceland during the European cup, when their amateurish team beat some of the best footballers in Europe to enter semi-final. I too would have found that surprising had I not met its people forged by the ferocity of their enchanting landscape. In spite of the harsh climate, Icelanders remain defiantly warm at heart.

我在冰岛的时候，刚巧是欧洲杯高潮。人丁单薄的冰岛，不过几十万人。国家足球队由教练到前锋，守门到后备，都是业余分子，竟然败了足球王国英国，跻身四强，世人大跌眼镜。但到过了冰岛，接触过它强悍中带温淳，冷傲中洋溢着热情的人民后，

大大减少了我对这赛果的意外感。

A "dottir" contemplating the future of her country. Iceland was the only country who got rid of the crooked banksters after the financial tsunami, and recovered miraculously well -- so well that the mainstream media have to keep it a secret. Icelanders seem to have a mind of their own in each and every way. They still don't use family "surnames". For example, a hypothetical Eric, son of Gunnar, will be called Eric Gunnarson. His sister Grdrun will be Grdrun Gunnardottir (daughter of Gunnar)

一个冰岛女孩在考量国家前途。冰岛是唯一在金融风暴后把“银行流氓”收监的西方国家，结果复原得很快，所以被银行家控制的“自由传媒”都不作报道。冰岛人很多方面都我行我素，到现在仍然没有改变独特的姓氏传统。举个例：一个叫 Gunnar Sorenson 的儿子 Eric 会姓 Gunnarson （意为 Gunnar 的儿子），不是Sorenson。而他的妹妹 Grdrun 的名字是 Grdrun Gunnardottir （Gunnar 的女儿），与爸爸，妈妈和哥哥都不一定同姓。

Laos (4) - Abstract Vientiane 老撾（4）－ 包羅萬象

Link to previous: Laos (3) - Beautiful Laos

鏈接到上一節 老撾（3）－ 美麗的老撾

Vientiane has become a familiar name in the past few days because of the 49th ASEAN foreign ministers meeting. Lao’s capital Vientiane, aka Viangchan, aka Wiangchan, means City of Sandalwood in Lao to some, City of the Moon to others. The community is believed to have been established in the 11th or 12th century. Since then, it had been ruled by one lord after another, with a brief spell of unsustainable independence in the 18th century which the Siamese promptly squashed. During WW2, Vientiane surrendered to the Japanese without much of a fight; Laos was a French colony at the time.

上星期的東盟與中國外長會議，把萬象這名字報道得熱了起來。從前遼國的首都叫永珍，別名文單或雍田。遼國改名老撾後，永珍才易名萬象。萬象這名字無論中英法文都有好幾個版本，就算在老撾原文也有不同解讀：一說是「檀香城」，另一說是「月城」。萬象大概建於十一到十二世紀左右，一千年來被很多不同的大佬管治過。十八世紀時還曾經獨立，威風了幾十年才被暹羅征服。隨後老撾淪為法國殖民地，二戰時法國對日本沒有招架能力，皇軍不費吹灰之力便佔領了這座首都城市。

Laos (3) - Beautiful Laos 老撾（3）－ 美麗的老撾

Link to previous episode - "The Bombed People"

鏈接到上一節 － “被瘋狂轟炸的人民”

I'm still wondering if the two figures I saw at the magnificent Phapeng Falls are real or not
我到今天還懷疑 Phapeng 瀑布石頭上的人，是真是假

We entered Laos by bus at Boten（磨丁）. The immigration officer asked politely for RMB20 “service fees” to fill my entry form. It wasn’t necessary but I paid anyways. Most of my travel mates were at another line, and not asked to pay anything. Jobbery — if it isn’t too serious an accusation for a minor transgression — like everything else in life, should be viewed with a sense of proportion. Poor folks wanting to make a few bucks is understandable human nature. Monstrous greed from rich people, in the name of “economic freedom”, is grotesque and pathological. To simple-mindedly measure them with the same yardstick would be unfair, unintelligent, and possibly hypocritical. Anyways, we visited villages and temples, markets and waterfalls, from Boten to Luan Prabang to Pakse. The natural scenery was stunning.



Beautiful sunrise at 4000 Islands 四千岛日出

Laos (2) - The Bombed People 老挝（2）－ 被疯狂轰炸的人民

Digging for the truth  發掘真相

Link to previous episode: Laos (1) 

鏈接到上回：老撾 （1）

Nothing much happened in the ensuing centuries; just the usual merging and splitting, rebellions and suppressions. From 1893 to 1945, Laos was a French colony. After WW2, it declared independence but the French promptly returned. Independence? Not so easy mon ami. Finally, in 1954, France receded from Indochina. But guess what, the Americans were starting to pivot everywhere, including Laos. Irritated by the prospect of peace and unity in the Laos People’s Democratic Republic (PDR), a constitutional monarchy, the USA supported a pro-American faction to overthrow the coalition government, a subversive tactic which would become commonplace in the decades to come.

跟著的幾百年，老撾人民過著樸實單純的生活。政治上則離不開分分合合，侵略抵御等陳年老調。在十九世末，殖民地霸權興起。當時亞洲科技落後，當然難逃一劫。由1893 到 1945年，老撾成了法國殖民地。二戰後，據說「二等民族」可以「自治」，老撾不懂霸主們說一套做一套的慣技，誤以為真，宣佈獨立，隨即被法國禁止。到1954年，殖民地時代疲態畢露，法國撤出印支。誰料一雞死一雞鳴，大美「民主」帝國隨即補上，在乳牙未出的老撾人民民主共和國支持親美力量，推翻聯合政府。「顏色革命」這玩意，當年名義上雖未上色，卻已經開始猖獗，到處蠱惑人心，破壞和平，禍害人間。

What?   吓？

Xishuangbanna (3) — Yourantai, a Swiss chalet in Jing Hong 悠然台 － 景洪的瑞士绿洲

Whoever has heard of a border city in Xishuangbanna called Jing Hong? Just short of half a million inhabitants, it’s neither here nor there by Chinese standard. We arrived in the early evening. After dinner, we took a brief walking tour downtown to absorb its ambiance. As in nearly every Chinese town and city, a big group was doing dance exercise in the public square. Nearby, the riverside disco was warming up their oversized loudspeakers to a different tune. Next to it was a vibrant night market selling all things edible or wearable under heaven.

After loitering at the market for half and hour, we headed for our resort hotel. The driver’s navigator predicted the drive to take only five to ten minutes. Ten minutes from here? I couldn’t help being skeptical. I prepared for mental shutdown, getting ready for an early night with my earplugs firmly inserted. I suspected the “resort” to be one of those furnished with an all-night disco and twenty-four-hour massage service.

聽過西雙版納景洪市的人應該不太多吧。一個四十多萬人口的邊疆城市，不大不小，也不怎麼中型。到達景洪時，已近黃昏。在市中心晚飯後，到熱鬧的夜 市逛了一圈。湄公河畔的幽靜，似乎已被剛流行的迪斯科音樂所淹沒。逗留了大概一個小時，司機才用導航尋找「悠然台」去。據說這度假村離開市中心只有五到十 分鐘車程。我心想，一個跟景洪夜市相距十分鐘的「度假村」，能有多棒呢？莫非又是門庭如市，二十四小時 MTV 和按摩服務的所謂「現代化」休閒勝地？我暗自把期望降到最低，拿出耳塞，準備早睡早起身體好。過了幾分鐘，巴士停在半山一個小區中央。導航系統的機械聲音宣佈我們已經到達目的地。「就這裡？」 我忍不住問了句。沒有人回答我。可能大家的心裡當時也盤旋著同樣的問題。

A few minute later, we arrived at an unimpressive neighbourhood. “Here?” I asked. Nobody answered. I guess everyone had the same question in mind. A garden gate next to a local corner store had its name in Chinese and English — Yourantai. When the owner and his manager welcomed us inside, there was a synchronised wow! Unfortunately, I’m going to ruin this element of surprise for you with this post, if you ever visit Yourantai.

小區雜貨店的隔壁有扇大鐵門，上面用中英文寫著「悠然台」。按鐘後，等了好幾分鐘台主和他的經理才開門。當我們踏進悠然台的一霎那，都異口同聲地「哇」了一聲。

Xishuangbanna 西双版纳 (2) — Ancient Tea Mountains 古茶園

Dusk at Jing Mai Shan 景邁山暮色

Inside Jing-Mai Shan (Shan means Mountain) is one of the oldest natural tea plantations in Yunan Province with over 1800 years of history according to Bu Lang Tribe records. The Bu Lang plant tea trees at the fringe of the forest with minimal disturbance to the flora and fauna, just as their forebears had done for nearly two millennia. To ancient farmers, protecting the natural environment upon which they depend for food and survival is just common sense and self-preservation, not delusional “magnanimity” towards pitiful Mother Earth. There are no fences or spray painted logos around the tea trees. The farmers recognise which tree belongs to who. The ability to tell trees apart might seem incredible to some, but it’s actually quite easy, provided one has nominal vision and intelligence.

景邁山是雲南最古老的茶園之一。根據布朗族的記錄，大概有一千八百年的歷史。今天的布朗族茶農，仍然依照古老傳統，栽培茶樹時盡量不騷擾大自然的一草一木。古老民族都比較清楚生我養我者最終是天然環境，不是超級市場。對大地母親敬畏愛護乃生存之道。「環保」並非時尚，更不應該被顛倒為人類對唯一生存環境的「恩賜」。誰家種的茶樹，族人都互相認得，無需加圍欄或記號。

Lakeside at Jing Mai Shan 景迈山的湖畔风光

Xishuangbanna and Laos (1) - Meng Zhe Market 西双版纳与老挝（1）－ 勐遮市场

These days, when travelling, I often feel a precocious sense of nostalgia. The photos that I take could become mini time-capsules much sooner than expected. Come back in a year, and the scene may have changed beyond recognition due to hyper development, mindless conflicts, a colour revolution, and/or an invasion followed by wanton looting plus cultural devastation by a disproportional military power. The jolly marketeer in my viewfinder could become a refugee within months, for reasons beyond reasoning. Friends who have been to Syria like to reminisce how suddenly and thoroughly a beautiful and friendly country can be ruined.

近年來，當我旅遊拍照的時候，往往有幾分過早出現的「懷舊感」。在這無常萬變，災難頻頻的世界，不少眼前景象隨時短期內面目全非。有些改變是由於高速發展所致。但不少遽變都源於無理性的衝突，顏色革命，甚至從天而降的侵略者以不對稱的科技暴力毀滅，屠殺，改朝換代，搶掠資源和文化清洗。照相機前滿臉笑容的小販，說不定幾個月後家破人亡，淪為難民。到過敘利亞旅遊的朋友，都有類似的慨嘆。

Back in January this year (2016), I visited Xishuangbanna and Laos with a few travel-mates. Fortunately, these regions seem more likely to prosper rather than be ruined in the foreseeable future, though one should never underestimate the destructive power of Dark Forces.

我一月份途經西雙版納到老撾兜了一圈。看來這地區面對高速發展的機遇和挑戰，大大高於戰禍。但破壞和平的惡勢力無孔不入，不能掉以輕心。

A Little Soho Story 蘇豪區的小故事

Ah! Soho! Sounds so Chinese. But the name originated in London, probably as hunting grounds for Henry Number Eight and friends. Nobody’s sure. Gradually, the area was taken over by brothels and bars and restaurants, pleasure establishments favoured by privileged gentlemen after shooting foxes. Since the 1980s, prostitutes have been replaced by high margin shops and posh restaurants. Foxes had been long gone. 

蘇豪這個名字很有中國味道，出處卻在倫敦。據說蘇豪區原來是亨利八號和哥們的狩獵場。貴族獵狐完畢，都要輕鬆一下。於是妓院，酒吧和食肆慢慢蓬勃起來。自八十年代後，貨真價實的妓女雖然佔地不多，也難逃被貨真價不實的高級商鋪取代。不知為何，蘇豪這名字甚受歡迎。紐約抄了之後，香港又抄。美國人抄襲肯定有一番道理，說 Soho 代表 South of Houston 街。於是香港連這命名之術也照抄，話 Soho 代表 「荷里活道之南」 －South of Hollywood 才真。其實 Soho 位置在歌賦街以北，叫做 No Go （North of Gough Street）會較有創意。不過香港的強項是抄襲，和取笑大陸人抄襲，不是創新。 

The name Soho attracts copycats for some reason. It’s been recycled in New York and Hong Kong at least. Soho, after due American justification, means South of Houston Street in NYC. Hong Kong  feels the need to copy semanticity as well, and claims it stands for South of Hollywood Road. But Soho Hong Kong is also north of Gough Street. Why not call it NoGo instead? Too original I suppose. I personally prefer the vagueness of Soho London; truly seminal things tend to be shrouded by time, elusive to definition.

The Caucasus (3) Faces of Armenia & Azerbaijan 高加索掠影（3）阿塞拜疆與亞美尼亞的面

A capella singer in a stone chamber at Garni, Armenia
在亚美尼亚古迹 Garni 石室清唱圣诗的歌手

鏈接到上一篇： 高加索掠影（2）－宗教

Link to last post: The Caucasus (2) — Religion

我將阿塞拜疆與亞美尼亞兩個世仇放在一起，是對他們的一種友好祝願。早在一戰前，這兩族人一有機會便你插我眼珠，我咬你耳朵。20世紀期間，奧斯曼帝國，大英帝國，和蘇聯都先後當過監護人，亦分別播下了新衝突的種子。

By mixing Armenian and Azerbaijani faces in this post, I’ve probably committed a capital offence in both countries. Animosity between the two neighbours goes way back to before WW1, for untraceable reasons which have long been distilled down to elemental hatred. For more than a century now, they’d kick and bite and scratch each other whenever a big guy isn’t around. The Ottoman, British, and Soviet empires had all played guardian here, and sowed new seeds for future conflict.

高加索掠影 The Caucasus (4) －格魯吉亞的面目 Faces of Georgia

Woman outside Church 教堂外的老婦

鏈接到上一篇 高加索掠影（3）－阿塞拜疆與亞美尼亞的面目

Link to previous post: The Caucasus (3) — Faces of Armenia and Azerbaijan

要瞭解格魯吉亞的處境，失業率是個好參數。蘇聯瓦解後，格魯吉亞獨立，失業率狂飆至85%，社會動蕩了二十多年。現在比較安定，失業率降了下來，仍然停留在65%的懸崖邊上。導遊指出，格魯吉亞人的傳統本領是務農和打仗。現在人口只有三百多萬，要把本事擴大，經濟多元化，談何容易？美國，北約和以色列於是把握機會，大發好心，在一個名為 「軍備培訓」 的資助計劃下，大力培養格魯吉亞人的戰爭天分。

格魯吉亞人給我的印象很淳樸倔強，老實勤勞。但很多人的眼神都帶著幾分無奈與憂戚。

Unemployment in Georgia is a good indicator of the disheartening situation. When first separated from the USSR in 1991, the newborn nation plunged promptly into chaos. Unemployment rocketed to 85%. Relative calmness has been restored, but unemployment still stands at an astounding 65%. Georgians, in the words of the tour guide, are traditionally farmers and warriors. With only 3.5 million of them, holding on to strong traditions, diversifying the economy is much easier dreamt than done. Israel, NATO and the USA are currently helping to develop one of two Georgian talents under an aid programme prosaically and ominously named Arm and Train.

Many Georgians look sad.

The Caucasus (1) — A Brief Intro 高加索掠影（1）－文明摇篮的面貌

Azerbaijan 阿塞拜疆

A few months ago, I was still misspelling Caucasus as “Caucuses”. Now that I’ve visited Azerbaijan, Armenia, and Georgia for 18 days, less travel time, I have learnt a few trivia about the Southern Caucasus, and formed some superficial impressions of my own.

老實說，幾個月前，我連高加索是哪個「索」字也搞不清。但花了18天時間參觀南高三國 －－ 阿塞拜疆，亞美尼亞，格魯吉亞 －－之後，除了知道了一點點他們的歷史文化和風土人情外，也對這歐亞要塞多了幾分模糊印象和片面看法。

Tsminda Sameba Church against Kazbegi 格魯吉亞著名的卡茲別吉風貌

The Caucasus (2) — Religion 高加索掠影（2）－宗教

Link to Previous Post: The Caucasus (1) — A Brief Intro

鏈接到上一篇：高加索掠影（1）－文明搖籃的面貌

We are supposed to be tolerant of religion no matter how absurd it is; but religions have not been very tolerant of others. Throughout the Caucasus, there’s nearly nothing left of its pre-Christian glories; they have been brutally destroyed or craftily painted over by organised religions long ago. All that’s left from five millennia of Caucasian civilisation are churches, cathedrals, monasteries, and memories of savage conflicts incited by gods. In less than three weeks, I saw a lifetime’s worth of crosses and churches and monasteries. I suspect there are more crucifixes and monasteries in Armenia and Georgia than in Heaven itself. 

無論多荒誕的宗教，現代文明人都不只要包容，還得尊重。這國際規矩是由宗教文化養大的人定的，不得破壞。但回顧歷史，宗教本身對異見通常不留情面，手起刀落。在有幾千年歷史的高加索，差不多所有古蹟都是四世紀歸奉了基督以後的遺物。在這之前的異教建設，祭祀聖殿之類，都被清洗乾淨，考古無從。幾千年老的文明搖籃，剩下的都是教堂和修道院。我看在亞美尼亞和格魯吉亞的十字架，可能比天堂的還要多。

Pilgrims at Geghard Cave Monastery, Armenia
亞美尼亞 Geghard 山洞修院的朝聖信徒

Beautiful North (4) Santa and Locusts Part (1) - Lapland

「鏈接到中文版：芬蘭聖誕與蝗蟲上集」

This X’mas, we were part of a locust cloud in Santa’s homeland, warmly welcomed by the cool Finns. Before getting into all that, first a few words and photos on Lapland. 

Santa’s home at Rovaniemi was an elfish shopping mall, kinda cute but not enough to raise goosebumps. Lining up for half an hour with my ten-year-old to take a picture with Father Christmas used up a lot of paternal love, but Santa surprised me. He was a gracious old man, appearing more regal than drunk, and perplexingly committed to being photographed all day with dumb tourists. He greeted us enthusiastically in Chinese: “Ho ho ho! Ni Hao Ma?” His felt slippers were ginormous, approximately three times my size — 130?

Rovaniemi was worth a one-day visit. An hour and a half northward by bus was Levi, where everything, except the food, had a magical air. 

美麗北國（4）－芬蘭聖誕與蝗蟲（第一部分）：Lapland

LINK to English [Santa and Locusts]

聖誕期間，我和家人在芬蘭北部 Lapland 做了“蝗蟲”，在冰冷的北極圈內受到當地人熱情招待，頗有感受。在分享蝗蟲經驗前，先來看看芬蘭著名的聖誕村是個甚麼模樣。

聖誕老人在小鎮 Rovaniemi 的家，是個小精靈購物村。跟他老人家拍照留念，除了要付款，還得排隊半小時以上！哎，為了十歲的女兒，我最後也排上了。想不到聖誕老人挺有氣派，不象是街上隨便抓來應節的臨時演員。他對整天跟遊客拍照的單調工作，似乎十分投入。臉上掛著招牌鬍子，腳下穿了巨大絨鞋的聖誕老人，坐在木椅上，用不錯的中文跟我們打招呼：“呵呵呵！你們好嗎？”

Levi 的下午／黃昏景色